Granada, Tea, and Cockroaches

Last weekend was my long-awaited trip to Granada—my favorite city in the world (which is not saying much, but it’s true!). Just a few months ago, this trip felt so far away. Now it’s already come and gone! Although the weather was less than perfect, I certainly managed to take advantage of the time we spent in Granada. A few highlights:

1. La Capilla Real: This is the burial site of los reyes católicos Fernando and Isabel, the king and queen who conquered Granada to complete the Spanish Reconquista in 1492 (they also funded Christopher Columbus, who “discovered” America that same year). You can actually see their original caskets, but my favorite part of the chapel was the sculpture of Fernando and Isabel designed to honor their grave site (it depicts them sleeping). Fun fact: Isabel was considered to be the brains of the two of them, so her head weighs down the pillow more than her husband’s! Unfortunately, you can’t take pictures in the chapel...you'll just have to use your imagination.

2. The tapas bars in Granada still provide free tapas with every drink! Adriana and I were lucky enough to meet up with her friend and a few others, who took us to some of their favorite places. Thanks, guys!

3. TEA. Adriana and I discovered the wonderfulness that is the tetería. Technically, I think teterías are all hookah bars, but we opt for the tea. It comes in a cute little pot and is absolutely delicious. This is my new thing. Today we found a Sevillan tetería, and I’m determined to find an equivalent in Boston/Philly when I get back to the States!

4. La Alhambra: This is the fortress/palace that was the last Muslim stronghold in Spain. As I had already seen it with Katie a few years ago, there were no real surprises. Even so, the beauty of the palace, the gardens, and the view of the city is truly breath-taking. I also learned a lot from the tour--last time, I did not appreciate the history of the place.

5. Unfortunately, about 20 people from my program (including me) found themselves sick on Monday and Tuesday. This was not a highlight. But it is the truth. No one really knows what it came from—I’m still convinced it was food poisoning from the hotel buffet, but others think we all came down with a virus. Either way, it was not pleasant. Luckily everyone’s feeling better at this point!

Spanish word of the day: el cucurucho = cone (Yesterday, I ordered a cucaracha con helado de menta—a cockroach with mint ice cream—instead of a mint ice cream cone!)

Revelation of the day: Carmen, my host mom, DRANK A SIP OF WATER. This is literally the first time I’ve seen that happen since being here.

un abrazo a todos,
elizabeth

You Wish You Were Living with Carmen, Too.

Last Tuesday (November 1st) was a Spanish national holiday known as Día de Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day). Traditionally, this is a day when Spaniards visit the graves of loved ones. It is now also used by the younger generations as an excuse to celebrate Halloween—yes, it sort of exists here—and to take an unofficial four-day weekend from the university.

I took advantage of the holiday to do what I do best: sample desserts. Adriana and I tried two types of traditional desserts made for Día de Todos los Santos—huesos de santos and buñuelos:

I also used Día de Todos los Santos as an excuse to talk to my Señora about burials and cemeteries here in Spain. I was actually quite surprised by what Carmen told me. First, she said that she has paid someone to clean the gravesite of her relatives once a week every week since the death of her aunt 30 years ago. She also told me she wants to be cremated—not because she prefers cremation to burial but because there is no one to tend to her grave once she dies. She has actually made payments every month for years now so that she will be cremated when she dies. To me, this indicates a major difference in the amount of respect given to the dead in Spain versus in the States (though, to be fair, my Spanish sample size is limited to one).

Spanish word of the day: flores amarillos = yellow flowers (This is a good one. Earlier this week, I was talking to Carmen when she launched off on the following story: Many years ago, she visited her nephew in Madrid. His patio had some plants with beautiful yellow flowers, and she asked him for seeds so that she could grow this type of plant on her balcony. Unfortunately, although her plant grew, it never grew flowers. Carmen threw it out. Later, in talking to another one of her nephews, she found out that this plant was in fact marijuana. Let me translate: my Señora was illegally growing pot on her balcony without realizing it. Gotta love her.)

un abrazo,
elizabeth